Changes

[[File:Loinloom 1.PNG|left|thumb|'''Fig. 4. Loin loom and loom parts:''' 1. Bamboo which serves the same purpose as the warp beam in a horizontal loom. 2. Thin bamboo rod which acts as a lease rod. 3. Bamboo shod stick. 4. Thin bamboo heddle stick which holds the yarn heddles. 5. Wooden beater. 6. Wooden rods which serve the same purpose as the cloth beam in a horizontal loom. 7. Leather back-strap. 8. The continuous warp. 9. The woven fabric. 10. Mat spread on the floor on which the weaver sits. Courtesy: INSA.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n407/mode/2up P.368], Fig.6a.</ref>]]

[[File:Loinloom 1.PNG|left|thumb|'''Fig. 4. Loin loom and loom parts:''' 1. Bamboo which serves the same purpose as the warp beam in a horizontal loom. 2. Thin bamboo rod which acts as a lease rod. 3. Bamboo shod stick. 4. Thin bamboo heddle stick which holds the yarn heddles. 5. Wooden beater. 6. Wooden rods which serve the same purpose as the cloth beam in a horizontal loom. 7. Leather back-strap. 8. The continuous warp. 9. The woven fabric. 10. Mat spread on the floor on which the weaver sits. Courtesy: INSA.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n407/mode/2up P.368], Fig.6a.</ref>]]

[[File:Change of Shed 1.PNG|thumb|'''Fig. 5. Change of shed in loin loom 1:''' 1. Lease rod. 2. Bamboo shod stick. 3. Heddle rod. 4. Yarn to make the heddle. 5. Weft. Courtesy: INSA.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n407/mode/2up P.369], Fig.6b.i.</ref>]]

[[File:Change of Shed 1.PNG|thumb|'''Fig. 5. Change of shed in loin loom 1:''' 1. Lease rod. 2. Bamboo shod stick. 3. Heddle rod. 4. Yarn to make the heddle. 5. Weft. Courtesy: INSA.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n407/mode/2up P.369], Fig.6b.i.</ref>]]

The loom used for Patola {double ikat) weaving in Patan, Gujarat, receives support from above and the sides. It is bereft of a treadle mechanism. It is a single harness loom with provision for two sheds. Every alternative warp end is threaded through a half heddle. Thus the shedding arrangement is based upon the division of the warp ends into two units. The shed rod is used to form one shed and half heddles for the formation of the second. These groupings of odd and even ends interlace alternately in course of weaving. The weaving sword helps in extending each shed opening and is used for beating in the weft. The resultant weave is an even tabby {Figs. 7a-c,8).

The loom used for Patola (double ikat) weaving in Patan, Gujarat, receives support from above and the sides. It is bereft of a treadle mechanism. It is a single harness loom with provision for two sheds. Every alternative warp end is threaded through a half heddle. Thus the shedding arrangement is based upon the division of the warp ends into two units. The shed rod is used to form one shed and half heddles for the formation of the second. These groupings of odd and even ends interlace alternately in course of weaving. The weaving sword helps in extending each shed opening and is used for beating in the weft. The resultant weave is an even tabby (Refer Fig.7).  

Ornamentation on the loom can be achieved by introducing variations in color while maintaining a simple tabby weave {Fig.8). Similar effects can be achieved by using double cloth techniques in which warp ends are manipulated at two or more levels by relevant shafts and heddles. An example of this technique may be found in the khes (27) of Punjab {Figs.9a-b.).

Ornamentation on the loom can be achieved by introducing variations in color while maintaining a simple tabby weave (Refer to Fig.8 for structure of tabby weave).

(27) The item categorised as khes in Pakistan corresponds to the article in Fig. 9b. In India, however, there appears to have been two categories, khes and majnu. Khes is a rough quality off-white or checked handloom material used as wrapper in Punjab. According to Sri D.N. Vij, Panipat Textile Handicrafts, Panipat, majnu is a double cloth with a patterning as shown in Fig. 9h. The technique was ascribed by him to Multan.

Items similar in patterning and technique and dated between the 12th and 16th centuries in the Dumbarton Oaks, collection, U.S.A., have been assigned an Egyptian provenance. This corresponds to the period between the Ayyubid and Mamluk dynasties thus reinforcing a Near Eastern origin for the sub- category called majnu in India (Thompson, pp. 35-36; Lamm, p.60, plate XXA, B).

Items similar in patterning and technique and dated between the 12th and 16th centuries in the Dumbarton Oaks, collection, U.S.A., have been assigned an Egyptian provenance. This corresponds to the period between the Ayyubid and Mamluk dynasties thus reinforcing a Near Eastern origin for the sub- category called majnu in India  

However, the double cloth technique also appears to have enjoyed an indigenous base. This is evidenced in the Deccani double coloured Pitambar sari, a silken ritual garment in which each side of the sari presents a completely different colour field (Fig. 10). However, the multiple cloths which evolved in the Near East have been absent in the Indian tradition.

However, the double cloth technique also appears to have enjoyed an indigenous base. This is evidenced in the Deccani double coloured Pitambar sari, a silken ritual garment in which each side of the sari presents a completely different colour field (Fig. 10). However, the multiple cloths which evolved in the Near East have been absent in the Indian tradition.

 

One of the characteristics of the Indian loom has been the intensive use of shafts and treadles to achieve extra warp and weft patterning. For extra warp however, an ingenious device, the barrel dobby is much in evidence today. The dobby was patented in England but its roots may well lie in shaft and peddle devices used in extra warp ornamentation as in the Paithani loom, Maharashtra.

One of the characteristics of the Indian loom has been the intensive use of shafts and treadles to achieve extra warp and weft patterning. For extra warp however, an ingenious device, the barrel dobby is much in evidence today. The dobby was patented in England but its roots may well lie in shaft and peddle devices used in extra warp ornamentation as in the Paithani loom, Maharashtra.

 

For narrow weaving as in borders, Pagris, and for cross borders, looms with multiple shafts have proved popular solutions (Figs.11a-c). For weaving of newar and patti, used in providing the base on bed frames and for winding around the calves of persons having to stand for long periods, variations of the fixed heddle and looms with shafts have been used (Fig 12.) Such looms are in operation to this day in Wadhwan, Gujarat. Tablet weaving (Fig.13) is used as a finishing technique for dhablas, used as shawls or as body garments in Gujarat. It also appears to have been utilised in the weaving of tapes (Fig. 14) used for tying bundles of manuscripts of a religious nature.

For narrow weaving as in borders, Pagris, and for cross borders, looms with multiple shafts have proved popular solutions (Figs.11a-c). For weaving of newar and patti, used in providing the base on bed frames and for winding around the calves of persons having to stand for long periods, variations of the fixed heddle and looms with shafts have been used (Fig 12.) Such looms are in operation to this day in Wadhwan, Gujarat. Tablet weaving (Fig.13) is used as a finishing technique for dhablas, used as shawls or as body garments in Gujarat. It also appears to have been utilised in the weaving of tapes (Fig. 14) used for tying bundles of manuscripts of a religious nature.