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Textile Technology (तन्तुकार्यम्) (view source)
Revision as of 14:01, 20 May 2020
, 14:01, 20 May 2020→Indian Loom Technology: Adding images with reference and editing
== Indian Loom Technology ==
== Indian Loom Technology ==
The loom has been defined by Dorothy Burnham as, “any device for weaving on which the warp may be arranged and openings for the passage of the weft formed through it by a shedding mechanism” (Hoffmann, p.7). The predominant loom in India has been the pitloom of the horizontal counter-balance treadle type (Fig.4,). Broadly speaking, on the basis of ethnological evidence, the evolution of the Indian loom could be postulated as follows: at the first stage the loom may have had shed sticks and heddles (Figs. 3a, 3b.). Next came the introduction of the reed (Fig.4), shaft, treadle and, perhaps, the barrell dobby (26) (Fig. 5.).
[[File:Pitloom.PNG|left|thumb|'''Fig. 1. Pitloom''': Horizontal counter balance pit loom with shafts and treadles. This loom is positioned within the living accomodation of the weaver and therefore, allows for integration with other domestic activities and pasttimes. Note the narrow reed. This loom is used for weaving tribal loin cloths. Weaver, Sri Rama Bhai Wanker, Chota Udepur, Gujarat. Source: INSA Publication.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n401/mode/2up P.363], Fig.3b.</ref>]]
[[File:Shed Formation.PNG|thumb|'''Fig. 2. Shed Formation''': In order to create a shed, the suspended heddle shaft is slightly lifted. A flat stick is inserted in the small shed formed. This stick is then turned on its side to get a wider opening. The counter shed is formed by taking out the flat stick and bringing the shed rod closer to the heddle shaft. Although there is a continuous warp, usually the full warp is stretched out horizontally. Source: INSA Publication.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n401/mode/2up P.363], Fig.3b.</ref>]]
(26) Varadarajan and Patel, p.20. The reed not only maintains even spacing and tension but also serves to comb the warp ends in course of weaving.
The loom has been defined by Dorothy Burnham as, <blockquote>''“any device for weaving on which the warp may be arranged and openings for the passage of the weft formed through it by a shedding mechanism.”'' </blockquote>The predominant loom in India has been the pitloom of the horizontal counter-balance treadle type (Refer Fig.1). Broadly speaking, on the basis of ethnological evidence, the evolution of the Indian loom could be postulated as follows:
* At the first stage, the loom may have had shed sticks and heddles (Refer Fig.2).
* Next came the introduction of the reed that maintained even spacing and tension and served to comb the warp ends in course of weaving; As also that shaft, treadle and, perhaps, the barrell dobby (Refer Fig.3).[[File:Barrel dobby.PNG|thumb|'''Fig. 3. Barrel dobby mechanism''': The loom used for weaving Karvathi Kati dhoti. Photographed at Suraj Mela, 1987. Source: INSA Publication.<ref>A. K. Bag, History of Technology in India (Vol. I), New Delhi: Indian National Science Academy, Lotika Varadarajan & Krishna Amin Patel, Textile Technology, [https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.205662/page/n401/mode/2up P.363], Fig.3b.</ref>]]
The loin or body tension loom is used in the northeastern part of the country. It is a very early loom type used extensively in East and Southeast Asia in which the weaver regulates tension by moving backwards or forwards as required in course of weaving. This movement releases the warp threads and also facilitates the separation of the sheds (For details, see Shirali, pp. 83-87) (Figs. 6a-c).
The loin or body tension loom is used in the northeastern part of the country. It is a very early loom type used extensively in East and Southeast Asia in which the weaver regulates tension by moving backwards or forwards as required in course of weaving. This movement releases the warp threads and also facilitates the separation of the sheds (For details, see Shirali, pp. 83-87) (Figs. 6a-c).